We can’t get enough of the brioche knitting trend that we see this year. The Brioche stitch is simply beautiful! Your knitting needles (single-pointed, double-pointed or circular) and one shade of yarn (or two) can result in a striking reversible fabric. Although it’s an older technique, brioche stitch is seeing a resurgence in new designs for hats, cowls, shawls and sweaters. In this blog, we’re going to show you the basics so that you can give this technique a try.
What is Brioche Knitting?
First, let’s talk about what brioche is: This type of knitting creates a lofty, reversible, ribbed fabric. It is created by slipping stitches and creating yarn overs in one row and then knitting those stitches together in the following rows. Many patterns use two colours of yarn, which can be easy to see, especially when you’re first starting out, but you can also knit one-colour brioche as well.
Brioche is a general term used for a variety of stitch patterns that are worked in similar ways. As Barbara G. Walker writes in her book "Treasury of Knitting Patterns," "The elements of all such patterns are (1) a slipped stitch, and (2) a yarn-over; these are knitted together on the return row." While this pattern is expressed as two rows, it's technically a one-row repeat, with the first row only being worked at the beginning of the pattern.
Brioche stitches go by lots of different names, such as Double Brioche, Waffle Brioche, and Syncopated Brioche. Fisherman's Rib is a similar stitch pattern that is sometimes called Brioche but technically it is not, as they don't include slipped stitches and yarn overs. The stitches are worked in the row below to give the distinctive, puffy look of Brioche).
How to Knit Brioche Stitch?
Brioche has its own language so we’re going to first define a few knitting abbreviations and terms:
Sl1yo stands for slip 1, yarn over, and it is a stitch you’ll be using on every row. You’ll need to slip the next stitch from your left needle to your right needle, while simultaneously wrapping the yarn around your needle from front to back. This slipped stitch and its corresponding yarn over will be treated as 1 stitch in the subsequent row.
Bark stands for brioche knit, and you’ll sometimes hear it referred to as the “bark stitch.” When you see a brk stitch, you will be knitting the next stitch together with its corresponding yarn over that was created on the previous row.
Brp stands for brioche purl, and you’ll sometimes hear it referred to as the “burp stitch.” When you see a brp stitch, you will be purling the next stitch together with its corresponding yarn over that was created on the previous row.
Probably the most basic form of Brioche Stitch works on an even number of stitches. Stitches are slipped as if to purl with the yarn at the back of the work.
Row 1: *Yarn over, slip 1, knit 1. Repeat from * across.
Row 2: *Yarn over, slip 1, knit 2 together. Repeat from * across.
Repeat only row 2 for the pattern. Note that with the preparation row you'll be working on more stitches than you cast on, so plan for that when determining gauge.
When ending a project or area of ribbing that includes Brioche Stitch at the hem or cuff of a garment, work the row by eliminating the yarn overs and simply purling 1 and knitting 2 together across. After that row, you can bind off in a regular knit 1, purl 1 ribbing pattern.
Make sure you bind off loosely, as this fabric is very stretchy.
Just keep in mind, if you are using two yarns, you need to get the tension of the yarn strands right, or the fabric you create will not look done well. Wet blocking can later help to correct some irregularities, but not all of it.
Brioche Stitch Variations
There are many different variations on Brioche Stitch.
Several tutorials are available online, including one working on an even number of stitches but without the yarn over at the beginning of the row, to produce a selvage edge. The other uses a two-row repeat, though they're technically considered the same row, forward and back, much like two "rows" of double knitting translate into one row in the pattern.
If you want to try your hand at knitting Brioche Stitch, start with a swatch, then move on to a basic pattern like a two-colour Brioche Stitch Scarf. It's not much more difficult once you get the hang of it and it looks striking.
We hope you will be inspired to knit the Brioche Stitch. Knitting is fun, and with a little bit of practice and exploring various techniques, you will make great things.
Happy knitting!